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Small digits represent short bottom pins (that must be pushed up more to reach the shear line); large digits represent longer bottom pins (that need only be pushed up a bit). Unfortunately, these designs are less than ideal, and many of the "standard" picks are too large to fit and move comfortably in common lock keyways. They include a standard hook (called the "Hook" in Peterson's catalog), a larger hook (the "Gem"), and a deep curve (the "Reach"). Over the years, the locksmithing industry has settled on a number of "standard" pick designs. The proper pick and torque tool selection depend on the shape of the keyway, the features of the lock, the picking technique, and the individual preferences of the user. Much of this is simply a matter of individual preference, but certain choices here can also have an impact on performance. Many manufacturers outfit their picks with elaborate and supposedly "ergonomic" handles, but these often hinder performance as much as they might enhance it. The LAB picks can comfortably maneuver around even very tight keyways, and are among my personal favorites. I invite you to share your experiences by filling out the form on this website so that other beginners can learn from our experiences.
Whether you’re just starting out or looking to take your game to new heights, a solid grasp of the rules, game variations, and strategies will set you on the path to success. However, your efforts un-pinning and re-pinning locks will be time well spent -- you will progress much faster than you would if you tried to start out picking fully pinned cylinders. However, the design of the cylinder requires the use of special tools to manipulate the pins and apply torque. Picking lever locks generally requires different tools from those used for pin tumbler locks, and high security lever locks often require specialized purpose-made tools. For most locks, especially as you're starting out, a workable compromise is often the smaller Peterson hook. For most of the picking methods discussed here, in which tumblers are manipulated one by one, a "hook"-style pick is generally used. Once you've picked a cylinder, you should know in exactly what order the pins pick. The pick must be strong enough to resist bending or breaking while lifting pins, yet the shaft must be small and thin enough to maneuver freely around the keyway without disturbing other pins.
Another style of torque tool has two "prongs" that fit in the top and bottom of the keyway, with a cutout between them for the pick. The tool must have a good fit to be effective, however. The selection of the torque tool is just as important as that of the pick, but, again, commercial pick kits often fail to include a sufficient range of sizes and designs to allow good control and feel across the range of common locks. In general, the torque tool should be as thick as possible while still fitting in the keyway, and of a width sufficient to provide good control but without interfering with the picking tool's access to the pins. You will need a small set of cylinders in various keyways, a board or vice to hold them in while you practice, and a small re-pinning kit (extra pins and springs and a "follower" tool). In the lab you'll find a collection of small (12 inch by 18 inch) lock boards, each containing six specially pinned locks with a given keyway. Each board is labeled with its keyway, and each lock cylinder on a board is labeled with the number of installed pin stacks (from one to six) and the keying code for its pinning.
Master ring cylinders (which are no longer in common commercial production but were once marketed by Corbin) use this mechanism to provide independently-keyed master keying. The six character keying code gives the pinning from the front of the lock to the back, with a "-" for a missing pin stack and a digit for a pin that is installed. The locks are drilled for up to six pins. The pins toward the back may feel a bit different from the pins in the front. The origins of billiards date back to the 15th century in Europe. Fouls in billiards can occur in various ways, such as pocketing the cue ball, failing to hit any ball, or causing the cue ball to leave the table. Very "wavy" rake picks can simulate various key profiles, and can be surprisingly successful at opening poorly-made locks. This keyway is a bit more "open" (it's intended to allow several different key profiles to fit in it), and so requires the use of a larger pick than the Arrow AR1 keyway does. There is a more detailed discussion of configuring training locks at the end of this document.
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